The Forth battle of Learning to Surf
The Forth battle of Learning to Surf is standing up on the surfboard! So you have caught the wave and are ready to stand up. Sounds easy …. Once your on the wave, let it break to white wash and let you speed level out, then in the fastest motion you can manage do a push up motion and clamber to your feet, make sure your feet and body are facing sideways and your head is turned looking forwards, don’t stand on it like your on ski’s! Keep your body crouched and arms out wide, it all helps for balance adjustments. As you repeat this more and more, pay attention to where your feet are on the board, you will have to move your feet around all the time to maintain your balance and to stay on the wave, that normal. Next, as you get the push up motion faster and faster, try and do it while the wave is unbroken, so as soon as you feel the unbroken wave pick you up. Then you will be surfing the real wave surface and feet position gets more important then. practice practice practice ! NOW HERE IS THE CRITICAL PART – just prior to starting you push up routine, do an extra paddle to get your surfboard angled across the wave slightly, so when you stand up you are facing a little bit across the wave. The steeper the unbroken wave is the faster you standing up process must become. After a lot of practice you will do it without even thinking about it.