The Other Second battle of Learning to surf.
The other second battle of learning to surf is learning how to paddle out through big white wash waves coming at you in a big rush, but when the surfboard you are on is large so you may not be able to duckdive it at all. Again like duckdiving, this will require some patience and stamina… Option 1 – ditch the board and dive under the wave and climb back on when the wave has passed. Not a great choice as you will be pushed back to shore a lot and waste a lot of energy. Option 2 – Do the eskimo roll, do this just prior to the white wash hitting you. Hold on to your board tightly and roll over so the wash goes over the top of the board and your body is like an anchor, as soon as you can, flip the board over and climb back on. Better than option 1, but still uses a lot of energy and a lot of potential to be pushed towards the shore. Option 3 – Do a push up on the board and wedge the nose in as much as possible like a bad attempt at a duck dive. Do this just prior to the white wash hitting you. Hold on tightly and as soon as possible drop back on to the board and get paddling. This can work a lot of the time and can avoid the pitfalls of option 1 and 2 in a lot of cases. It wont work in massive surf though, but its probably best to not even bother if the waves are that big that you can get out ! Stay safe. Option 4 – Paddle around the break, this is a great option for point breaks and reef breaks where this is possible, it conserves energy and avoids the white wash as well ! Stay tuned for the next instalment the battles of Learning to surf !