The Third battle of Learning to Surf
The Third battle of Learning to Surf is learning to catch a broken wave. In other words catching a white wash wave. Sounds easy but a big one of these can smash you around very easily. So, paddle out to get a position where you can turn around and be ready for the wave approaching. Position yourself on the board so you are more towards the back of the board with the nose sticking upwards a little. When the wave is still maybe 10meters away start paddling hard, the faster you are moving the easier you will get picked up smoothly by the wave. As the wave hits you, it can help to steady yourself by spreading your feet a little as needed to counterbalance the water rushing around you. You can also use your arms in the same manner. Once your moving with the wave bring your feet together and hands onto the board and hold the nose area and you can ride the wave on your belly. Spend time doing this over and over, enjoy the feel, lean side to side, move your body forwards and backwards on the board, drag a foot off one side at a time. Feel the effects of these basic actions and how it controls the boards direction and willingness to stay on the wave or drop off the back of it. Get these skills in place and it will really assist you in the next challenge of learning to surf, which is getting to your knees and standing.