The Second battle of Learning to surf.
The second battle of learning to surf is learning how to paddle out through big white wash waves coming at you in a big rush. Most people will term this “how to duck dive” and it requires patience and stamina. If the surfboard you are on is large you may not be able to duckdive it at all, so we will address that issue in the next lesson ! For now, its as simple as this, paddle your surfboard towards the wash and then stop paddling at a point to give just enough time for you to push the board under the water and then duck your head and body down after the board. When you do this, push the nose down using both hands and your upper body weight, you might find it easier to push it down on a slight angle so it goes down faster. Make sure you hold on to the board tightly and do it at about the same position on the board as where your chest is when you lie on it. You will find that one of your knees will press into the back of the board to steady this motion. Once the nose is down enough, push your bodyweight onto the knee to help sink the back of the board down, and take a breath and put you head and body down with the board. Once you are under the water hold on tight , and angle the nose upwards so the board pops to te surface as quickly as possible, start paddling as fast as possible so you don’t get pushed back to shore too much. With practice this will become one combined and balanced sequence of movements. So practice practice practice - even through green lump waves.